November in Kasanka

 November Update

Yes, it’s almost the end of December and I’m only posting this now, but I’m really battling with the internet here!! I wrote this a few weeks ago:

Baboons at play! It doesn't always appear very gentle!

Things have been going great- I’m slowly but surely learning all the baboons. I’m quite confident with all the adult males now and I’m getting there with the adult females. These are the most important individuals to learn as the research is very much focused on them at present (especially their interactions). I’m already starting to form my favourites, and my least favourites! They all seem to be ok with me; there haven’t been any serious or aggressive incidents so far (touch wood!!)

Bat season sign

One of our lovely signs as a gentle
reminder to tourists

This isn't the bats in the morning,
but rather the evening from Fibwe Hide.

   



Alex and I finally made it up the BBC hide to watch the bats come in one morning, it was literally indescribable. The stunning dawn sky only added to the whole experience. It’s one thing to watch them fly out in all directions from one place in the evening, but to see them come from all directions back to that one spot of forest is just spectacular. 

Elephants outside camp (smelling us!)

Elephant outside camp!

On my last night alone at camp while Liz was away, I was awoken around midnight by some noise outside my tent. It sounded like something taking a huge breath and it took me a few seconds to realise it was an elephant! I was scared, but definitely equally, if not more, excited. I don’t think I’ve ever lay as still as I did then! It stayed at my tent for about 15 minutes and even touched it a few times. I’m amazed by how silently they can move; when it left I didn’t hear anything bar the sound of its breathing gradually moving away and the occasional twig snap. So even though I’d been within metres of an elephant, I couldn’t technically say I’d seen one here yet. However, the herd did move passed camp about 2 weeks later so I finally got a sighting! The camp attendant from the scout camp came to tell us they were near and we got to see around 15 of them crossing the road outside our camp. Incredible to think we live with them!! I also got to see them all again crossing the Chinyangali Plain, which was amazing, but not as special as having them right on our doorstep! 

The herd crossing the Chinyangali Plain

The river at Pieter's farm

I got to visit a local farm owned by a South African man named Pieter. He is very much into organic farming and has started tobacco farming. It was lovely to visit the farm and see everything, especially his orchard and garden which were full of fruit and vegetables (which are a real treat when you live in the bush!). A beautiful river runs through his property and we went down to see it joking that there was going to be a crocodile (as many people swim there) and sure enough there was a 2m long croc near the river bank! Crazily, Pieter still went for a swim! 

Liz taking measurements of the dead baboon

Unfortunately, a baboon got trapped in a snare on Pieter’s farm (obviously Pieter didn’t set it!) and died before he could rescue it. While this is sad and further proof of the poaching problems here, it did have a benefit in that Liz and I were able to take biometric measurements from the body (it was a sub-adult male). We buried the body in the hope of retrieving our first full Kinda baboon skeleton once decomposition is complete. 

We also had a barn swallow fly into the dining room one night and perch near us- a sure sign something was wrong. Sure enough the poor little creature was dead the following morning, but once again it wasn’t without a benefit! It turned out the swallow had been ringed in Cape Town in 2008 and we were able to contact the University and pass on the GPS co-ordinates of where it died. 

The swallow in our dining room

The rains have finally arrived in Kasanka. Torrential
rain from inside the dining room!

Rainy season has finally started in Kasanka. After threatening since I got here, we hear thunder and receive at least a bit of rain almost every day now. Plus there’s the occasional full-blown, amazing thunderstorm. And with the rain has come a new lease of life in the park. Everything is green now! When I arrived only a few weeks ago, the landscape looked dead and brown, but now there’s luscious green everywhere. Edible mushrooms have started to appear on anthills; these are absolutely delicious fried with butter and garlic! We also came across a rare and stunning Black Lily (Amorphophallus abyssinicus), as well as a tortoise (who was kind enough to quickly pose for photos with us!). While it’s lovely to see everything come to life and flowers appear everywhere, heavy rain does hamper our research. But there’s also work to be done on the computers so time is never wasted here at Kinda Camp! 

Me with Mr Tortoise

Edible mushrooms fresh from the forest (safely ID'd by our scout!!)

The beautiful Black Lily (Black Arum)

I got to travel to the nearest town Serenje (about an our and a half drive away) twice this month. Firstly, I went with Liz to pick up some shopping and also just so she could show me around the town. I then had to return on the 27^th November as my Business Visa was expiring and I needed an extension as my Work Permit has yet to come through. Zambia only gives month long visas, and even though as an Irish citizen I don’t actually require a visa, I still need a stamp every month while I’m waiting for my work permit. Serenje is a small and typically African town, but you can buy a cold drink, fruit & vegetables and, most importantly, chocolate! There’s not much more you need really.

A view of Serenje market

With the Conservation Club Girls; Charity,
Selina, Agness & Victoria
(Photo by Elizabeth Winterton)

I also got to meet the girls who are members of the Girls Maths, Science and Conservation Club which Kasanka Baboon Project coordinates. They come to the Conservation Centre just outside the park and receive lessons in (obviously!) maths, science and conservation, as well as computers and life skills. They seem like a lovely group and I can’t wait to work with them over the next year. I feel so privileged that not only do I get to conduct research on primates, but I also get to be involved with the community and have a whole new range of experiences. I couldn’t have wished for a better job; it ticks every box for me! Feeling very lucky and looking forward to December, Christmas (!) and 2013! 

Oh Africa!

News from Zambia!!

I have been in Zambia for two weeks already (although with the internet being very iffy here, it’s likely this will be posted quite a bit later than that- I was right, here I am on 11th Dec finally with some decent internet connection!!) and I’m only now finding the time to sit down and write something! It has been extremely hectic for these two weeks; settling in, meeting everyone, meeting the baboons!

The sign for the entrance to Kasanka National Park, an unfenced, privately-owned and run National Park, and my new home!

Here’s a synopsis of my first week here:

I had my graduation on 25^th October and left for Zambia less than 48 hours later at 6am on Saturday 27^th October. I had a sleepless night followed by a sleepless flight, but, as always, KLM were brilliant. Great food and service! I was met at the airport by Liz (current camp manager) and several friends she’d made at the backpackers. I knew pretty much straight away that we would get on great! We all headed to a bar for a drink but at that stage I was nearly delirious from lack of sleep so I definitely felt the effect of one bottle of cider (Savanna! Back in Africa- back to drinking Savanna!)

This is my current bedroom. There’s a bed in there and
enough room for all my stuff so it’s great. I will be moving
 into a larger safari tent once Liz leaves though.

The following day, 28^th October, we visited the Sunday market at “Arcades” where I gave into purchasing stuff (a bag and a painting) despite the crazy amount of luggage I already had- KLM allowed two bags for free. We got a Zambian sim for my phone and began organising my application for my work permit. We then went by mini bus (quite the experience in Africa!) to another shopping centre called “Manda Hill” and later again we went to another, “Levy”, to do the monthly shopping for camp at Pick ‘n’ Pay (another familiar name to me from South Africa). I already love the heat and being back in the sun! We stayed at Lusaka Backpackers that night and had a few drinks with people, as well as a lovely BBQ for dinner.

This is our basic little kitchen equipped with a gas stove and
a sink (there’s a barrel on the roof that we fill to get running water!) 
We can make an array of food between the stove and our
little brick oven outside- banana bread, pizza, fried rice, pancakes, 
wraps, yum!

This is our little dining room/office where
I’m sitting right now.  It’s lovely and col during the day
and is where our one and only power source is.
When we’re not out in the field- this is where the
magic happens!

The following morning, 29^th October, we headed to hand in my work permit application and all went well except for the fact that my degree certificate from UCC is in Latin and they won’t accept it. So we’ve had to organise for it to be officially translated and I’ll need to wait a little longer for my work permit. Unfortunately, while visiting the fruit and vegetable market, my iPhone was stolen from my bag while it was on me without me even noticing (TIA!). Quite upsetting and stressful on my second full day in the country, but of course it could have been much worse (my passport/purse/whole bag!). So I’ve lost all my lovely going away texts and notes I’d made, but other than that I had most of it backed up luckily. It just means no mobile internet for a while, and also no Instagram which is a real shame as I’m involved in a nature photography group there (@InstaNatureLover- check it out!) and now can’t access it. Hopefully insurance will be sorted out shortly! In the meantime, luckily Liz has a spare old Nokia so I can at least make contact with home!

At 3pm that day we got on the bus for the 8 hour trip to Kasanka National Park. The trip was fine and it was bizarre to see such a long road with so little on it, including very few roads off it. I really am going to be isolated! We arrived just after 11pm and we collected at the gate by scouts and brought to Kinda Camp; my home for the next year!

One of my first photos and sightings of the
Fibwe Troop of baboons I will be studying for the next year.

Another of my first sightings. Notice the pure
white infant! Kindas give birth not only to black infants
(as is the case with all other baboon species)
but also white, black & white, grey and black & grey.
We are unsure of why this is, but presumably it’s
down to genetics.

The next morning, 30^th October, I unpacked in my little tent (equipped with a bed- luxury! But no electricity. I can’t complain though, we are one of only several points in the park that have a charging point from solar power) I also got to visit Fibwe Hide which I previously wrote about. Strange to visit it after reading about it so much. We then headed out in the afternoon to track the baboons! Myself, Liz and Marley (our armed scout) checked in their usual spots and managed to find them. I got a great view of them as they almost paraded passed (perhaps checking me out as much as I was checking them out!) and now the difficult task of learning to individually recognise them begins. Luckily I have some experience from working with vervets. 

A distant view of bats exiting the bat forest;
literally thousands pour out at a time. Amazing!

We went to watch the bats fly out in the evening (I’ve also already written about this). It was absolutely amazing and really is indescribable! Liz invited people from Wasa Lodge (~7km way from us) over for dinner that night and we sat around a camp fire. It was great to get to meet everyone; from the general manager Ernst, to the park ecologist Frank, to two new Dutch researchers here to study shrikes. Bed early as we were up at 5.30am the following morning! 

Once the sunset starts to kick in, it’s absolutely
stunning to watch the bats. I’ve watched it every day
for almost 2 weeks now and I’m still in awe.

Research is split into two blocks of ten days per month and each day is split into morning and afternoon research (~6am-10.30am & 3pm-6.30pm). We headed out again the following morning, 31^st October, and that afternoon I went out alone with Marley as Liz was going on holiday with her parents and needed to get the bus. That night was my first night at camp alone and there was a HUGE thunderstorm. It was amazing and I hadn’t experienced a proper storm in so long. I counted one thunder roll lasting over 30 seconds and every few minutes the tent would light up from lightning. Funnily enough I felt extremely safe that night as I figured not much would be out in the storm! 

Attempting (and failing!) to get internet signal
up our private hide. I had slightly more success on
Fibwe Hide.

Marley and I went out again the next morning, 1^st November, (I got to use my wellies already!) but couldn’t find the baboons anywhere. We walked over 10km searching for them but they completely eluded us. I got to see much more of the area though which was great. Marley then finished his blocked of work so I had free time until Liz returned in 5 days time (6^th November). Alex, a volunteer with Kasanka Trust for the bat season and living near us, came over at lunch and I went out with him to put up a sign in the afternoon. I didn’t realise quite how long it was going to be and ended up traipsing around Chinyangali Plain in flip flops (and without a scout!). In the evening I started watching videos of the baboons to help recognise them and went up our private hide (which is great for phone signal!) Desmond, our camp attendant, makes great food and I had delicious wraps for dinner. 

The Chinyangali Plain in some beautiful light.
You’re guaranteed to see Puku here, and possible warthogs
and bushbuck. And maybe even an elephant.

Very bad quality as I had to use webcam
 so I didn’t scare him, but here’s Sparky the pygmy kingfisher
on my head!

The following few days were spent adjusting to my surroundings, exploring camp, reading methodologies and looking at photos/videos. On Friday 2^nd November, I cycled to Wasa Lodge with Alex just to see the place (and also borrow their internet!). It’s a lovely little lodge run on solar power and overlooking Wasa Lake. I also got to see a group of zebra that the Trust have bought to release in the park. We also went out at 4am on Saturday (3^rd) to watch the bats come back in which was just as spectacular as seeing them fly out. We hoped to go to the BBC hide to watch (the hide nearest to the bat forest) but unfortunately there were guests. We went to Fibwe Hide just after dawn to look for Sitatunga antelope and I finally got to see my first one! 

While I was back at camp working, a pygmy kingfisher (which is often in our dining room/office) flew in and landed on my head for several minutes! As I was working on the laptop, I managed to surreptitiously open the webcam programme to get a video and a few photos! I’ve named him “Sparky”!! 

And here’s a better photo of him to show how incredibly beautiful these birds are.

And that has been my first action-packed week in Zambia!

Kasanka Baboon Project

"The Mission of the Kasanka Baboon Project is to create a long-term field site dedicated to the study of the Kinda baboon while providing capacity building in science education in the surrounding communities and public awareness of wildlife conservation."

Obviously, I'll be able to speak about the project in much more detail once I'm actually there! But for now, here's a very short piece on what I know about it so far...

The project is based at Kinda Camp near Fibwe Hide in Kasanka National Park. It was founded by Anna Weyher, and the camp (a low-impact, but permanent camp) construction was completed in 2009. The main aim of the project is to research Kinda baboons, as well as conserve them. There is a habituated troop within the area which are the focus of the research. This involves tracking and following the troop to record behavioural data. There is also research involving hormonal studies planned. 

Kinda baboons from the research troop (Photo from here)

The project is also involved in community work, an aspect I'm very interested in. There is involvement with the local school as well as the running of a Young Woman's Science and Math Club. Anna's aim is to involve the community in conservation as much as possible, given that these are the people that live there and will for generations to come. A little education can go a very long way as I have personally witnessed with vervet monkeys and Chacma baboons in South Africa. 

So the final countdown is under way and I will be in Kasanka in under 3 weeks now! I'm excited and scared, but overall I truly can't wait to be back in Africa doing what I love!

In the meantime Liz, the current camp manager, has sent me these ID sheets so that I can begin to learn the names of the current troop members (and hopefully begin to recognise them):

The current adult male baboons form the troop which I need to learn.

The current adult female baboons form the troop which I need to learn.

Kasanka National Park

Some information on Kasanka National Park, my soon-to-be home for the next year!

"Kasanka is Zambia’s first national park under private management and is entirely reliant on tourism revenue and charitable funding. It is a valuable conservation area with diverse flora and fauna including many endangered species and exceptional birdlife" - from Kasanka Trust Ltd.

Kasanka Baboon Project is located in Kasanka National Park in Central Zambia approximately 500km from the capital Lusaka. It is one of Zambia's smallest National Parks at just 390 sq. kilometres. Despite this however, there is an abundance of wildlife species (including endangered species) as well as habitats.

Screenshot of Google Maps showing the position of Kasanka National Park in Zambia (the red "A").

The view from Fibwe Hide (Photo from here)

Kinda Camp, where the project is based within the Park, is situated near to Fibwe Hide. Fibwe Hide is renowned for viewing Sitatunga (Tragelaphus spekii), a reclusive swamp-dwelling antelope, which are quite numerous in the park.


 It gives panoramic views of the Kapabi swamp due to the Hide being situated 18 metres up a Mululu (Africa Mahogany) Tree. 

Fibwe Hide situated 18 metres up a Mululu Tree! (Photo from here)

Bat migration in Kasanka including up to 5 million bats! (Photo from here)

Kasanka also sees an annual congregation of up to 5 million Straw-coloured fruit bats (Eidolon helvum) from throughout Africa each November. They pack themselves into just one hectare! More on it here.

I  can't wait to see this spectacle!! 

108 mammal species have been recorded in the Park including elephants, hippos, puku, buffalo, Sable antelope, warthogs, leopards, side-striped jackals, caracals, servals, honey badgers, vervet monkeys, blue monkeys and of course Kinda baboons! There are also over 450 species of birds recorded in the Park.

I know some people despise Wikipedia, but the page on Kasanka has some great information!

Moving to Zambia

I have decided that receiving an amazing offer of a position at a baboon research project is reason enough to finally create (and stick to!) a blog!

Me with Poppy, an orphaned Chacma baboon (Papio ursinus), in South Africa in 2010.

My name is Aileen Sweeney and I am a recent (ahem, technically still yet to happen due to Uni pushing back graduation ceremonies...) zoology graduate from University College Cork in Ireland. I consider myself Irish despite being born and raised in Australia until I was 13. I have always had a passion for wildlife and the natural world around me, however it wasn't until my late teens that I realised this passion very much focused around conservation. I spent four years studying zoology, while volunteering for the summers of 2009, 2010 and 2011 at primate rehabilitation centres in South Africa (more on them in a later post). This included completing my Literature Review project on the genus Chlorocebus, as well as my Bachelor's thesis on infant vervet monkey (Chlorocebus pygerythrus) behaviour in a rehabilitation centre. My passion for wildlife has definitely become focused on primates. While I can technically call myself a "scientist", "biologist", "environmentalist", "zoologist" or probably even "ecologist" now, there are two more specific titles I hope to earn the right to use: "conservationist" and most importantly "primatologist". I think this next year will bring me both of those titles!

Kasanka Baboon Research Project, Zambia.

Having completed my degree and unsuccessfully applying for a Masters degree in Germany (despite achieving a first class honours degree- it was probably one of the biggest shocks/disappointments I've ever experienced) I became stumped as to what to do next. I didn't want to simply apply for other Masters, as if I didn't have enough interest to apply for them in the first place, why would I now?! Instead I decided to "hang tight", knowing that something would come my way and all would fall into place as it should. I travelled to Italy to au pair for a family for the summer and while there I came across an advert for a job in Zambia as Camp Manager at Kasanka Baboon Research Project. It was a real "this is it" moment for me. 

So after putting together my application and contacting referees for references (one of which referred to me as "somewhat monkey mad"- definitely helped me get the job!) I sent all the documents to Anna Wehyer, the Project's Founder and Director. About a week later (before the application deadline had even arrived!) I received an email inviting me to a Skype interview with Anna. On the day,we spoke for well over an hour and, not wanting to gear myself up for more disappointment, I decided to simply take from it that we were very like-minded people and primate research/conservation was definitely what I wanted to do. A few days later I received another email saying I had made it through to the final round of interviews and this time needed to speak with the current Camp Manager, Liz Winterton, so she could help Anna make the decision. I got on with Liz equally as well as I did with Anna, yet one again didn't allow myself to read into it too much other than we shared similar passions. However, three days later they offered me the job! I immediately burst into tears out of pure excitement and sheer terror! I really couldn't believe they had picked me, especially given both the experience and qualifications that I knew Liz had compared to mine. I am so excited, thankful and thrilled about this opportunity so soon after my BSc. 

So I'm currently in the crazy stage of preparing to leave- visas, work permits, flights, insurance, vaccinations, shopping...also brushing up on my knowledge of Zambia, baboons, field work etc. I will be flying out to Zambia barely 36 hours after my graduation ceremony on the 27th October. And then staying for a full year! Liz will be staying on until December with me to train me, and then after that it will be up to me to manage the project. It is technically a voluntary position as there is no salary (however all meals, lodging and travel costs are included), but the experience itself is payment enough! I will talk about the project in more detail later. Hopefully I will be able to keep this somewhat regularly updated, as I know there's a blog for the project that I will need to keep updated, as well as the Facebook Page- so two birds with one stone and all that!

I can't wait!!!

A group of Kinda baboons (Papio cynocephalus kindae) from the habituated troop I will be researching in Kasanka National Park.